Maritime City Route

Complete Tour

Distancia: 6 km
Paradas: 8 stops
Tiempo: 1h 15m
maritime city
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8

Constitution Square

Until the mid-19th century, the entire city was what is now the Old Town, and festivals were celebrated in Constitution Square. Even today, it remains the nerve center of the city’s most important festival: January 20th, San Sebastián Day. The main events take place here, and during the 24 uninterrupted hours of celebration, the drumbeats marking the rhythm of the festival never cease. In September, the Euskal Jaiak (Basque Festivals) are held; the first Saturday of September we celebrate Sagardo Eguna (Cider Day), usually a great occasion to taste cider from various producers. Cider was once a highly valued drink in Basque maritime expeditions to the distant lands of Newfoundland for whale and cod fishing, as its vitamin C content prevented scurvy among fishermen. In the 19th century, cider was made in the basements of Old Town houses. These were meeting places that researchers believe were the origin of the first gastronomic societies.
On December 21st, Saint Thomas Day, the square becomes a large market. There was a time when baserritarras (farmers) would bring their best products to sell in the square. They came on foot, with horse and donkey carts. When transportation improved in Guipúzcoa’s towns, the fair became less necessary, but the baserritarras maintained the tradition of coming to San Sebastián on Saint Thomas Day. Today it’s a full-fledged tradition and celebration. It’s common to see chorizo stalls in the square, with people dressed in traditional baserritarra costumes.
No hay imagen
The square is located in the heart of the Old Town, with three-story houses featuring numbered balconies as it was once used as a bullring. The siege of 1813 destroyed a Baroque building that stood here, and in its place the City Hall project was built. In 1947 the City Hall moved to its current location at Alderdi Eder, so a few years later the Municipal Library was installed here. Walking past this building we’ll reach San Jerónimo Street and continue right until we get to 31st August Street. Turning right on this street, we’ll reach Kañoyetan Square (Cannon Square), where we’ll find the San Telmo Museum and Santa Corda.

Santa Corda and San Telmo

This is one of the oldest and narrowest streets in the city. Here we can imagine what the Old Town looked like before its destruction in 1813. It’s the only street remaining as an example of the ancient city. The Santa Corda street gate was one of the entrances to the convent, and through here locals entered the church. The Dominican convent, built in the 16th century, is now the San Telmo Museum, and the Santa Corda entrance is part of it. Inaugurated in 1902, it’s the oldest museum in the Basque Country.
No hay imagen
Right next door is my parents’ restaurant. From the start of the tour you may have guessed that gastronomy holds great importance in the city. The pintxos and dishes cooked in Old Town restaurants and bars are renowned worldwide. San Sebastián is a paradise for food lovers. The pintxo is the symbol of Donostiarra gastronomy, and the Old Town is the neighborhood with the most pintxo bars in the city.

Church of Santa María

Returning to calle 31 de Agosto. Santa María Church is on the right, heading towards the port; San Vicente Church is on the left. These two churches have long been associated with two nicknames in the neighbourhood. Thus, those born or living in the vicinity of San Vicente Church are koxkeros – said to refer to the protruding stones of the church (“koxka” in Basque); and those born or living in the vicinity of Santa María Church are joxemaritarras
No hay imagen
We’ll head to the portico of the Santa María Basilica to learn about this temple’s connection to the sea. The church’s construction, inaugurated in 1774, was financed by the Royal Guipuzcoan Company of Caracas with profits from maritime trade. The company was hugely important for Guipúzcoa’s economic development, particularly impacting San Sebastián in the 18th century. Besides tobacco, leather, cotton and coffee, the most important products from America were cocoa and pinole, used to make chocolate with sugar. Thus, San Sebastián developed an important luxury industry around chocolate. We can say the Church of Santa María was built with Venezuelan cocoa. The company took nails, anchors, weapons and military instruments to America, and brought back cocoa.

If we climb the stairs next to the church we can reach Mount Urgull. There’s a marvelous city panorama here; historically it was a strategic defense location.

From Santa María we’ll head toward the port, walking until we reach the Aquarium.

Aquarium

For years, the spectacular skeleton of a whale caught off the Basque coast has been the Aquarium’s symbol. San Sebastián’s own history cannot be understood without delving into whaling. Whale hunting brought great wealth to the city and all of Guipúzcoa: they produced whale oil, which was extremely important as fuel. At that time it was the best fuel – it provided excellent lighting and was the cleanest.

Añade aquí tu texto…

Basque Maritime Museum

This is a reference museum for understanding Basque maritime history. Inaugurated in 1991, it originated in the building of the San Sebastián Consulate, constructed in the mid-18th century at the port. This tower-house was created by the Consulate to control port activity and provide various services like monitoring ship arrivals/departures, maritime assistance, and maintaining dock order and safety. It played an important role in developing the Royal Guipuzcoan Company of Caracas and promoting the industry around cod and whales.
No hay imagen
We’re at the port promenade. At home I’ve often heard that in the past this walk was known as the La Jarana neighborhood. This area was outside the city walls, so when sailors arrived at night with the sea gate closed, they stayed in bars and inns outside the walls. A festive atmosphere was common here. The port has been a great source of fishermen, sailors and rowers. In fact, the neighborhood festival is celebrated on July 16th, coinciding with the Virgin of Carmen Day, patron saint of fishermen.
The next three stops will take us away from the Old Town, though you’ll see they’re still closely related to the sea and the Old Town.

Provincial Council

We’re in Guipúzcoa Square, standing before the façade of the Guipúzcoa Provincial Council headquarters. Looking upward, we’ll find five white busts. Who are they?
Five Guipuzcoan sailors and explorers: Andrés de Urdaneta – who discovered and documented the return voyage from the Philippines to Mexico; Juan Sebastián Elcano – who circumnavigated the globe; Blas de Lezo – head of the Spanish Navy; Antonio de Oquendo y Zandategui – son of Admiral Miguel de Oquendo; and Miguel López Legazpi – founder of Manila.

Above them we see the coat of arms of Gipuzkoa. These five Guipuzcoan sailors worked in service of the Spanish crown as military men, sailors, secretaries or scribes.

Oquendo House

We’re heading to the Gros neighborhood, specifically to the foothills of Mount Ulía. In the current Sagüés area, on Zemoria Street, we find a 16th century palace: the Oquendo House. Today this historic building is part of the Okendo Cultural Center, the municipal cultural center of Gros.

The Oquendos were one of the most important families in San Sebastián’s history during the 16th and 17th centuries. Miguel de Oquendo was one of the generals who led the Spanish Armada in 1588. The objective was to attack England, but the expedition failed and many Donostiarra sailors died.
No hay imagen
If we continue up Zemoria Street, we can ascend through the Ulía forest, where we’ll find the Whaler’s Lookout. In the Middle Ages, Donostiarra fishermen hunted whales and cod, using cetacean fat and baleen to make various utensils.

We’ll find countless paths to explore Ulía’s slopes and can reach the cliffs to enjoy the coastline and contemplate this spectacular natural space. We’re about to finish the tour; our last stop will be at La Concha Promenade, at the Bicentennial Balcony.

The Bicentennial Balcony

Here we’ll remember one of the most tragic events in San Sebastián’s history. Before us is a beautiful view of La Concha Bay and the Old Town, but if we went back to August 31, 1813, we’d see only fire, cannon shots and smoke. After two months of siege by French soldiers, English and Portuguese troops managed to penetrate the walled city. They expelled the French but looted and destroyed the city. The city we know today was built on the ashes of that San Sebastián.
It was a tremendous massacre and destruction. Soldiers forcibly entered people’s homes, burned houses, committed robberies, raped women and killed about a thousand citizens… Those who survived struggled to move forward. Ultimately they succeeded. In fact, in Kañoyetan Square in the Old Town there’s a sculpture honoring all those who rebuilt the city. It has become a symbol of the courage shown by Donostiarras; the sculpture of a woman ready to rebuild the city brick by brick remembers that tragedy.